My chicken piccata (with a twist!)

This is my version of chicken piccata.  Calling this a my version, in and of itself, is a funny designation, as piccata was originally a way preparing meat (veal, really) which included cutting the meat, coating it, cooking it and adding sauce to it.  In the states chicken piccata is ubiquitous at Italian restaurants, and I often enjoy it when I'm out with friends.

This is one of my Mom and Dad's favorite dishes that I make, and I often make it for them when I visit them, or when they visit me. This tradition started LATE one wonderful Manhattan evening.  My Mom and Dad arrived quite late (they had flown from Kansas City to New York and had a number of delays.)  I made them chicken piccata with sauteed spinach and a family tradition was born.

My Mom and Dad.  They are two of the best and most loving people I know.

Just as piccata changed as it came to the States, so has my way of making it changed over the last few years.  I love the sharpness that lemon affords, but I find that often when paired with white wine it becomes sickeningly sharp and almost vinegary.  This "hit and miss" method led me to some fairly big changes with my version of piccata.  I make mine with a lemon, stock and brandy sauce (my friend Sharee on occasion will sometimes simply ask me to make "lemon sawce.")  I think the brandy adds a certain mellowness of flavor that is hard to resist.  If this idea is abhorrent to you, just stick to the original white wine (just be sure to use something you would enjoy drinking.)

Incidentally, I am completely unapologetic about meddling with culinary tradition by using brandy in my sauce in place of white wine.  Language evolves, and so does the food we eat.  People who eat my food at parties and such ask me if I have some sort of gold standard "authentic" way of making things.  I think techniques and general ideas can (and should) be passed down generations, but it's up to the current generation to make it their own and adapt it for best use today (I take the same view of vocal technique/opera and many other things in life.)  I think that the food we eat ought to be a vital, changing entity and that we shouldn't be stuck.  Yes, there is a way to honor the past but live in the present, and we each have to find our way of doing that.  Coraggio!

Now that my little paean to culinary and artistic freedom is done, onto the recipe.  This is really quite simple (though it can take a bit of time, and washing the plates after can be a drag.)  I sometimes use recycled paper plates for the flour, egg and breadcrumbs.  I am making quite a few chicken breasts for my party.  In general, a rule of 1/4 a cup of breadcrumbs per breast should be OK (although I always underestimate the amount of breadcrumbs I need.)

A final note, I think you can fry your chicken piccata in any oil you like.  I personally plan to use vegetable oil, because it's cheaper and I like saving my nice extra virgin olive oil for places where you can really taste the difference.  The jury seems to be out whether frying food in olive oil is bad for your or not, so for now just do as you please (you should probably always do that if you're following my recipes anyway.)

Ingredients
Chicken breasts
Flour
Eggs
Breadcrumbs
Oil
Butter
3-5 Lemons (I like to make lots of sauce, which necessitates lemon juice)
Brandy
Chicken broth
Parsley
(Optional) Capers
(Optional) A splash of cream

1. Crack a few eggs onto a plate, and beat them with a bit of water.
2. Set three plates on your counter.  In the plate nearest your stove, place the breadcrumbs, in the next farthest, the beaten egg plate, and in the last, pour some flour.
3. If you start with whole chicken breasts, slice them in half and cover them with wax paper and beat them a bit flatter with a meat hammer or rolling pin (I like to advise other people in the kitchen or the living room that loud noise is imminent.)
4. Set a large pan on the stove with the oil heating.  Make sure the oil covers the pan.
5. Dredge the thinner chicken in flour, shake off the excess, toss quickly in the egg, and then roll in breadcrumbs.
6. Fry the chicken breasts in the pan.  Make sure the oil is hot enough first by just putting a tiny bit of the chicken in.  If it starts bubbling/sizzling, lay the chicken in the pan.  This should take about 3 minutes a side (it's quick recipe.)
7. After frying the chicken remove the pieces to a platter or plate, and turn the heat off.  If there isn't much oil left in the pan, just wipe it clean with a paper towel, being careful not to burn yourself.  I normally just toss the hot town in my stainless steel sink.  If that's not an option for you, just use another pan (better safe than sorry.)
8. In a pan, melt 1/2 a stick of butter.
9. To the butter add just a tiny bit (1 teaspoon) of flour and cook for a bit (yes, my version of this sauce is inspired a bit by the sauce velouté.)
10. Add the lemon juice and about 1/2 cup of brandy and let the liquid come to a bubble.
11.  When the liquid has begun to thicken and reduce, add about 1/2 cup of chicken broth and reduce.  The sauce should be fluid, not too thick.  If you're worried you won't have enough liquid, add some more stock.
12. Taste the sauce-it should be bright and cheery, but round and not overly acidic.
13. If you're using, add the cream.  A very small quantity will do nicely.
14. Add the capers and parsley to the sauce.
15. Lightly dress the chicken with sauce and serve (I bring the extra sauce to the table, as some people enjoy it.)

16. Eat greedily.