Apple cake with brown sugar brandy sauce

The fall is a lovely time of year-a slight nip in the air (unless you happen to be in a warmer climate,) the days grow short, and sweaters start appearing. I've always noticed that sunny afternoons take on a richer, darker hue...like the whole world is turning a cool terra cotta color.

We experienced such a lovely fall terra cotta afternoon yesterday.  We had a nice Idyll at Masker orchard in Warwick, New York, where we picked apples.

How can this sight not bring a smile to your face?

Beautiful, delicious apples-ripe for the picking!

I like pumpkin spice lattes (though considerably less than I used to,) pumpkin pie and pumpkin anything (though the fall/pumpkin connection seems to be getting a bit ubiquitous to the point of overkill.)  I must say, however, nothing says fall to me like a crisp, fresh apple.  Or, perhaps, apple crisp, apple pie....the list is quite long.

One of my favorite things to make with apples, is something I don't get around to every year.  It's an apple cake with a brown sugar brandy sauce, and it is heavenly-it's the culinary equivalent of a big warm blanket. The taste of a big hug from a friend. In other words, warm and comforting-just the ticket for a cool fall evening. It does require mashed apples (I use my food processor for mashing, but if you don't have one, just chop them aggressively,) and I would leave the skins on-you don't gain anything by removing them, and indeed, you might be losing time and effort by peeling them.

I'm proud of the sauce that goes on top of the cake. While a lot of brandy sauce recipes want you to whisk egg whites, add lots of cream or use confectioner's sugar, I don't. I start mine with butter and brown sugar, then add an egg yolk, and then add brandy shortly after.  It helps thicken the sauce, and the sauce takes on a really dark, almost butterscotch flavor (but the sauce is light, and doesn't weigh the cake down.)

This is my take on a recipe I first made in 2008-the original version is by the great James Beard.  His is perfect the way it is, but I like the warmth and dark taste I get from brown sugar (among other little changes.)

About the seasoning: I think anything like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc would be lovely.  I like the aromatherapy I get from simply taking out the bottle of cinnamon-just opening and smelling that dark, round spice puts me in a better mood.

Ingredients
1 stick of room temperature unsalted butter
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup of light brown sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon of cinnamon (pumpkin pie spice would also be nice)
2 tablespoons of milk or almond milk
1 tsp vanilla or 1 tablespoon rum
1 cup coarsely ground or finely chopped unpeeled raw apples (again, I use the food processor)
2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon of baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of salt



Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees
2. Grease your loaf pan and chop the apples in the food processor.

Phillip-San (the ceramic turtle) is in charge of apple chopping in my house.

3. Sift together the flour, leavening and cinnamon.
4. Cream the butter and sugars together.
5. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing after each addition.
6. Add the milk-I normally just take my container and let it go "glug-glug" and I don't actually measure it.
7. Add the vanilla.
8. Add the cup of apples.
9. Add the dry ingredients, and be careful not to over mix-you'll get a gummy, chewy cake otherwise.
10. Transfer the batter to the pan and bake for about 25-30 minutes.  Make the brandy sauce while you wait.

Brown sugar brandy sauce

Ingredients
1 stick of unsalted butter
3/4 cup of brown sugar
1 egg yolk
1/4-1/2 cup of brandy (to taste)
1/4 cup of milk (I used 2/%, but you can use any, or cream, or omit it)
pinch of salt

Method
1. Melt butter in the pan over a gentle heat.
2. Add the brown sugar as the butter is melting.
3. Add the egg yolk and whisk thoroughly-again, use a gentle heat-if the heat is too high you'll scramble your egg yolk.
4 Bring the heat to medium. Right before the mixture comes to a boil, add the brandy-it will sizzle a bit, that's OK.
5. Though it won't look like much, keep whisking over low heat-the sauce will reduce and will coat the back of the spoon.  Taste it-it should taste heavenly, not grainy or blotchy.

Not much to look at, really.  I've just added the brandy here-the sauce will thicken as you whisk it.

6. When the cake comes out of the oven and has cooled a bit, drizzle the sauce on top of it.

7. Eat greedily.

Apple cake-simple and comforting.

Banana Bread

Bananas are a wonderful fruit, but they have a way of not totally disappearing when you buy a bunch.  Fortunately, there's always the perfect way to get rid of them: banana bread!  This is also (for me at least) a quintessential fall food. I remember one of the first times I made banana bread-it involved some overly ripe bananas and a call to my Mom for my Grandmother's recipe.  My Grandma Lightcap didn't often use nuts in her, and I don't either.  If you want a banana nut bread though, just toss in some of your favorite nuts.  I was in Sarasota, and it was an unseasonably cool late October evening.  My friend Rebekah came over and promptly demanded the recipe.  I've been making this banana bread (with a few adjustments) ever since.

Banana bread become popular around the 30s with the popularization of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) and baking powder.  My version is no exception, and uses baking soda.  

I do enjoy using a rather ripe banana-and instead of putting the fruit in a bowl and mashing with a fork, I just massage and squish the bananas through their skins (this saves on dishwashing later, a big plus in my book.)

I like to use bananas that are quite ripe.  Once I spot a banana that is no longer a good candidate for a snack, I always wait a few days until they get ripe enough.  I also like to add just a bit of cinnamon-it's my aromatherapy fix when I make banana bread, and it really sings here.

The skin of a banana-look how ripe it is!

Ingredients

1 stick of unsalted butter (room temperature)

1 cup of sugar

3 eggs

2 tablespoons of milk
3-4 ripe bananas (though you can get away with 2)
2 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
pinch of salt
Loaf pan that has been greased, sprayed with baker's joy, butter, pam, etc.

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

2. Sift the together the 2 cups of flour, pinch of salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking soda, and set aside.

3. Cream the butter and sugar together in a mixer or by hand.  The butter will get lighter in color, and the two should be well mixed when you're done.  If your butter isn't soft, you can soften it by zapping it in the microwave for 8-9 seconds.  This helps take the chill off, and makes it more maleable.

4. Add 3 eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.  

5. Add the 2 tablespoons of milk.  The mixture will be fairly runny-don't worry.

7. Add the dry ingredients and beat just until incorporated.

6. Add the bananas! I suggest using 3 or 4 for that very concentrated, delicious banana flavor.  Some recipes indicate that the bananas should be mashed with a fork, but I am of the opionion that that if you just give them a very good squeeze while they are still in their skins, you can get just a good a result (but really squeeze and mash them in those skins on their way out!)   As always, if you want to remove the bananas and mash them with a fork, do as you please.

7. Transfer the mixture to the greased loaf pan and bake until done-about 45-50 minutes (remember, the heat is lowish.)  

8. Eat greedily.

Before....

After!  Because of the extra bananas and low heat, the banana bread will not dry quickly-it will still be delicate the next day (I like to have a piece with breakfast.)

My chicken piccata (with a twist!)

This is my version of chicken piccata.  Calling this a my version, in and of itself, is a funny designation, as piccata was originally a way preparing meat (veal, really) which included cutting the meat, coating it, cooking it and adding sauce to it.  In the states chicken piccata is ubiquitous at Italian restaurants, and I often enjoy it when I'm out with friends.

This is one of my Mom and Dad's favorite dishes that I make, and I often make it for them when I visit them, or when they visit me. This tradition started LATE one wonderful Manhattan evening.  My Mom and Dad arrived quite late (they had flown from Kansas City to New York and had a number of delays.)  I made them chicken piccata with sauteed spinach and a family tradition was born.

My Mom and Dad.  They are two of the best and most loving people I know.

Just as piccata changed as it came to the States, so has my way of making it changed over the last few years.  I love the sharpness that lemon affords, but I find that often when paired with white wine it becomes sickeningly sharp and almost vinegary.  This "hit and miss" method led me to some fairly big changes with my version of piccata.  I make mine with a lemon, stock and brandy sauce (my friend Sharee on occasion will sometimes simply ask me to make "lemon sawce.")  I think the brandy adds a certain mellowness of flavor that is hard to resist.  If this idea is abhorrent to you, just stick to the original white wine (just be sure to use something you would enjoy drinking.)

Incidentally, I am completely unapologetic about meddling with culinary tradition by using brandy in my sauce in place of white wine.  Language evolves, and so does the food we eat.  People who eat my food at parties and such ask me if I have some sort of gold standard "authentic" way of making things.  I think techniques and general ideas can (and should) be passed down generations, but it's up to the current generation to make it their own and adapt it for best use today (I take the same view of vocal technique/opera and many other things in life.)  I think that the food we eat ought to be a vital, changing entity and that we shouldn't be stuck.  Yes, there is a way to honor the past but live in the present, and we each have to find our way of doing that.  Coraggio!

Now that my little paean to culinary and artistic freedom is done, onto the recipe.  This is really quite simple (though it can take a bit of time, and washing the plates after can be a drag.)  I sometimes use recycled paper plates for the flour, egg and breadcrumbs.  I am making quite a few chicken breasts for my party.  In general, a rule of 1/4 a cup of breadcrumbs per breast should be OK (although I always underestimate the amount of breadcrumbs I need.)

A final note, I think you can fry your chicken piccata in any oil you like.  I personally plan to use vegetable oil, because it's cheaper and I like saving my nice extra virgin olive oil for places where you can really taste the difference.  The jury seems to be out whether frying food in olive oil is bad for your or not, so for now just do as you please (you should probably always do that if you're following my recipes anyway.)

Ingredients
Chicken breasts
Flour
Eggs
Breadcrumbs
Oil
Butter
3-5 Lemons (I like to make lots of sauce, which necessitates lemon juice)
Brandy
Chicken broth
Parsley
(Optional) Capers
(Optional) A splash of cream

1. Crack a few eggs onto a plate, and beat them with a bit of water.
2. Set three plates on your counter.  In the plate nearest your stove, place the breadcrumbs, in the next farthest, the beaten egg plate, and in the last, pour some flour.
3. If you start with whole chicken breasts, slice them in half and cover them with wax paper and beat them a bit flatter with a meat hammer or rolling pin (I like to advise other people in the kitchen or the living room that loud noise is imminent.)
4. Set a large pan on the stove with the oil heating.  Make sure the oil covers the pan.
5. Dredge the thinner chicken in flour, shake off the excess, toss quickly in the egg, and then roll in breadcrumbs.
6. Fry the chicken breasts in the pan.  Make sure the oil is hot enough first by just putting a tiny bit of the chicken in.  If it starts bubbling/sizzling, lay the chicken in the pan.  This should take about 3 minutes a side (it's quick recipe.)
7. After frying the chicken remove the pieces to a platter or plate, and turn the heat off.  If there isn't much oil left in the pan, just wipe it clean with a paper towel, being careful not to burn yourself.  I normally just toss the hot town in my stainless steel sink.  If that's not an option for you, just use another pan (better safe than sorry.)
8. In a pan, melt 1/2 a stick of butter.
9. To the butter add just a tiny bit (1 teaspoon) of flour and cook for a bit (yes, my version of this sauce is inspired a bit by the sauce velouté.)
10. Add the lemon juice and about 1/2 cup of brandy and let the liquid come to a bubble.
11.  When the liquid has begun to thicken and reduce, add about 1/2 cup of chicken broth and reduce.  The sauce should be fluid, not too thick.  If you're worried you won't have enough liquid, add some more stock.
12. Taste the sauce-it should be bright and cheery, but round and not overly acidic.
13. If you're using, add the cream.  A very small quantity will do nicely.
14. Add the capers and parsley to the sauce.
15. Lightly dress the chicken with sauce and serve (I bring the extra sauce to the table, as some people enjoy it.)

16. Eat greedily.

Forest Farro

Farro is on the rise.  Or rather, it has been on the rise for some time now.  This noble little grain is said to have sustained the ancient Romans.  It also happens to be incredibly delicious and easy to make.  This little grain has many attractive qualities for me.  I was in Rome just over a month ago, and I had the most wonderful time.  I realized that I would really like to live in Rome at some point in my life.  Why not dream big?  It's a magical city, and I'm happy to bring a bit of my love for Italian food and fascination with Rome together in forest farro.

The castel sant'angelo and me-last month in Rome.

The fontana di Trevi

The birthday girl and me last month at the Trevi fountain

As it turns out, farro is quite good for you-this little toothsome whole grain has lots of fiber, which helps it break down slowly in your body (unlike pasta or white rice,) has lots of magnesium, vitamins e and b.  The reason I'm cooking it, though, is that it's delicious.  It can be a lively, fun, very delightfully al dente alternative to pasta or rice/risotto.  Like rice (and unlike risotto) you do not have to carry on stirring the whole time. I will be cooking mine in mushroom broth, which is a wonderful alternative to chicken or veggie broth.

I call this dish "forest farro" because it's dark and earthy looking, and the mushrooms are rich and flavorful.  There is a bit of woodsy rosemary, and a the very green leeks provide a sweet oniony taste. A bit of parsley gets strewn on at the end.

I was teeny bit extravagant and purchased some truffle oil to drizze on the farro at the end-this makes the farro perfumed with the scent of mushroom (amplified by mushroom broth and a melange of mushrooms.)  I think this adds a real "woodsiness."  You may think this is mushroom overkill, but I really love it-you can always taste it first and then decide if you're going to use the truffle oil.

Ingredients

Olive oil (extra virgin or plain)

Cloves of garlic (to taste)

1 pat of butter

2 Leeks (you can buy these pre-washed and trimmed at Trader Joe's, but most supermarkets these days carry leeks....hurray!)

1 package of farro (they come in packages of about 496 grams/17.6 ounces or so)

Sherry wine (about 1/2 cup, divided)

1 box (liter/33 fl oz) of Mushroom broth

24 ounces-2 lbs of mushrooms (to taste) I like to buy mixed varieties.

Rosemary (Tablespoon of fresh)

Parsley (I use fresh italian parsley)

Salt

Pepper

(Optional) Truffle oil

Method:

1. Place a medium to large pan on the stove (I use my biggest sautee pan) add 1 tablespoon of olive oil.

2. Chop the two leeks and the garlic.  Add 1 3/4 of the leeks, the rosemary, parsley and some garlic to the large pan and cook until tender.

3. Add all the farro and coat each pearled grain.  If you think you might need a tad more oil, be my guest.

Stirring the farro

4. Add the sherry to the pan (in all honesty, I don't actually measure this-I just glug some out of the bottle.)  Allow the sherry to reduce bit-it good to stir it around.

5. Add the mushroom broth, give a stir, then you can leave it for about 25 minutes until the farro absorbs the liquid.  You don't need to stir constantly, but I'd check in every 10 minutes or so.

6. Add the other 1/4 leek and the rest of your garlic to another sautee pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil and the pat of butter.   Cook the leeks and garlic.

7.  Add the mushrooms, along with some salt.  They will greedily drink all the fat and the pan will look dry in about two minutes.  In another two minutes, they will then release their juices, and look luscious (I read that in Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Child, Beck and Bertholle, and have found it to be true.)  Toward the end, add the other glug of sherry to the mushrooms-it will bubble up a bit, but will then calm down.  Once it has reduced, turn the pan off.

8. When the mushroom broth has been reduced, add the mushroom mixture and stir.  Taste for seasoning-it may need some salt or pepper.

9. Transfer the farro to your serving dish.

10. (Optional) drizzle a bit of truffle oil on the farro, toss it, and enjoy the scent as truffle oil permeates your kitchen.  Ahhh....

11. Garnish with some leftover chopped parsley.

Serving the farro

12. Eat greedily.

Figs!

I remember the first time I ever saw fresh figs-I was in Novafeltria, Italy, and there so many fig trees, that the figs would fall off the trees and get crushed on the road.  This is horribly unappetizing, but I've always thought that a smashed fig looks a lot like a big squished bug.  I took a moment to taste, though and was an instant convert.  Luscious is the word that keeps popping up in my mind when I think of figs-I so adore their almost sensual, sultry sweetness.

Mmmm figs

Two years ago, I visited my friend Cindy, and she made these luscious figs.  They are simple, and I have since seen them a few other places.  They are figs that are halved, stuffed with a bit of goat cheese, studded with an almond and wrapped in serrano ham.

The first time I had these at Cindy's place, she used a marcona almond, and serrano ham, but in subsequent visits the nuts would change or disappear, and sometimes all we could get would be prosciutto.  I'm going to use a blanched, slivered almond and prosciutto, since that's what I have on hand.

I'm using deep purple figs, but you could use any fig you like.  A caveat to this recipe: don't make it too late in the fall, as the price of fresh figs skyrocket around October 1 or so, to as much as 50 cents for a single fig (ouch.)  You can use dates for this recipe as well, but it would be a bit sweeter.

I am not giving exact quantities here, as you can use as much cheese or prosciutto as you like.  If you're in the mood for something sweeter, omit the prosciutto and drizzle with honey.  I am baking these in the oven, but if you have a grill (outdoor or stovetop) I recommend grilling them.

Ingredients
Figs
Goat Cheese
Almonds
Prosciutto

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Halve all the figs; as you do so, snip or pluck the pointy stem off the top.
3. Place a modest (just under half a teaspoon) dollop of goat cheese on the open face of the fig.
4. Nestle an almond, whole or slivered, into the goat cheese
5. Wrap with prosciutto.  Since I'm entertaining, I'm going to use thinnish ribbons of prosciutto, though you could easily use a bigger piece and have the prosciutto give the fig a bear hug.  As it is, this is a gentle embrace.

A great, bite sized appetizer

Ready for the oven!

6. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the fig is tender and the prosciutto has firmed a bit.
7. Eat greedily.

Chocolate Mousse!

I’ve begun preparations for the party I’m having this weekend, and the birthday girl requested that we have chocolate mousse for dessert.  I almost always make dessert ahead of time (though it’s awfully nice to take a batch of brownies or a pie out of the oven partway through dinner-it makes for fun dinner drama.)  Anyway, I’ll prepare dinner tomorrow, but tonight it was chocolate mousse prep time!

ONE thing many of my friends know about me is that I adore Julia Child-from her boeuf bourguignon to her cooking videos and books, I simply love her.  She needs no superlatives from my pen (ahem..keystrokes) so I will be brief in saying that at this point I use her recipes as a jumping off point, and then put my own spin on them.  Case in point, a close cousin of this mousse can be found on page 604 of “Masterinhg the Art of French Cooking,” Childs’ first opus that she penned with her friends Simone Beck (Simca!) and Louisette Bertholle.  When watching the French Chef episode “The Spinach Twins,”a collaboration between Child and Simone Beck, I was struck by the very laid back, attentive, passionate, yet spontaneous nature of Ms. Beck.  I suppose some might say that I am an admirer of Julia in my heart, but I am almost more of a Simca-like cook in my style and approach. That will be made fairly clear by the method I use to arrive at this mousse, as I have streamlined anything I find unnecessary and take liberties with ingredients and ingredient quantity.

Many chocolate mousses use cream to lighten and give body, and others use egg whites.  This is a version of mousse that uses egg whites.  I would not serve this to children or people who are in some way compromised vis a vis their immune system, but I think for many it is just fine.  I’ll post another version that you can serve to kids (it even has a secret ingredient) at a later date.  Let me know if you try it, and you like it.

Ingredients

6 eggs, separated

¾ cup and 1 tablespoon superfine sugar

A few drops/ tablespoons of orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier or Cointreau (to taste)

9 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 ½ sticks of unsalted butter (preferably room temperature)

A dash (about a tablespoon) of Kahlua and a tablespoon of brewed coffee

Pinch of salt (Optional) Pinch of cream of tartar

Method
 

 1. In two bowls separate the egg yolks and egg whites-I just “juggle the yolks one at a time, passing each yoke until the white slides off into the bowl.  Do as you please, of course.  I use two stainless steel kitchen mixer bowls, but I suppose any two bowls would work.  If you have one kitchen mixer and one normal bowl, put the yokes in the normal bowl, and the whites in the mixer bowl.

This is Phillip-San, the Japanese ceramic kitchen turtle.  He supervises me when I'm cooking

2. Beat the egg whites to moderately stiff peaks-just start whisking (slowly at first, then pick up speed.)  Add 1 tablespoon of superfine sugar when the whites are frothy.  If you like, you can add  tiny amount of cream of tartar.  When done, toss the whites into the fridge.

3. Beat the living daylights out of the egg yolks and ¾ cup of superfine sugar.  You need to beat it for a while, say about 5 minutes-you need the mixture to be pale, and for there to be a “ribbon.”  I always talk about the “ribbon” with a hushed voice-please imagine me doing so as you read this.  The “ribbon” (ooh!) should look kind of like a satin ribbon as it falls off the wisk and pools slowly back in the bowl.  Add the orange liquer SLOWLY (you don’t want to mess up the ribbon) and keep beating the mixture until the ribbon has regained it’s full glory.

Ah, the beautiful ribbon.

Mmmm...Grand Marnier has a lovely orange flavor.  If you don't like that, this would be a good place to substitute some vanilla extract.

 4. Over double boiler filled with steaming water, continue to beat the egg yokes by hand for 3 minutes until they are quite warm to the touch, then submerge the base of the bowl in cold water (I just use another big kitchen bowl full of ice water for this one.  This is the part of the recipe I frankly don’t like doing, but hey, it can’t all be fun and games.)

5.  Chop/pour/measure 9 ounces of chocolate (I used Callebaut, but I’ve used toll house chocolate chips and other “non-fancy” chocolate…it almost always comes out wonderfully.) 

Is there anything more heartwarming than a big brick of chocolate?  Never mind, silly question.  Of course there isn't.  Well, maybe chocolate mousse...

Please measure your chocolate.  I was 1/8 ounce over, and I had to eat a piece out of the bowl.  This did not break my heart.

6. Add the 9 ounces of chocolate to a saucepan with the butter.  Put it on the stove on a low heat (don’t worry, the butter will help prevent the chocolate from seizing or burning.)  If you’re nervous about that, start melting the butter in the pan a few seconds before.  If you’re REALLY nervous, use a double boiler-that is the traditional way to melt chocolate on the stove.  You could also microwave the butter and chocolate in 25 second intervals until all is melted. 

7. Add a bit of Kahlua and/or coffee to the chocolate and butter.  Remove the chocolate mixture  and let it cool (no, really, let it cool-that’s really important.  Don’t rush this.)

8. Add the cooled chocolate mixture to the egg yokes and continue beating. 

9. Add about ¼ of the egg whites and stir ferociously (don’t worry about deflating the egg whites, you’re just using this bit to lighten the mousse.)

10. Fold in the remaining egg whites with a spatula-sink the spatula into the middle, and turning the bowl, gently fold the whites into the chocolate.  I LOVE this part.

It looks like mousse now!  

 11.  Refrigerate your mousse either in a large serving bowl or in individual portions for 6 hours or so.  This is why one must read to the end of the recipe-you can’t always make and serve something. 

12. Bon appétit!

Hello, world!

Welcome to Nico-licious!  My name (as you might have guessed) is Nicholas, and I'm a tenor, a performer, a traveler, a home cook and a bit of a hedonist.  I am in no way a trained chef, cook or even someone who works (or has worked) on a line in a restaurant, though I did serve tables for about 7 years. I simply enjoy cooking, and want to share some of my favorite recipes, and some of the warmth and love I feel for my family and friends when I'm at work in the Kitchen.

I am a fan of Julia Child, Marcella Hazan, and I love to draw inspiration from restaurants, books, and friends.  When possible, I'll give credit where due-if, for example, I take inspiration from something, I'll try to include a link to the original (or at least the name of the source material, such as a book, article etc.)

My first series of recipes will be what I plan on cook for a party this weekend.  My friend Sharee is celebrating her birthday, and the menu includes forest farro, chicken piccata and chocolate mousse.  And now, I'd best sign off here and get to the grocery store.

Nicholas, the kitchen pharaoh

Pablo, the smoldering Brussels Sprout Fairy